When our daughters planned their visit to Tokyo, they insisted we take a side trip to another country during their stay. Understandably, they figured if they traveled all this way, they might as well experience an additional Asian culture. South Korea was the logical choice given its relatively close proximity to Japan. Seoul was an easy 2.5 hour flight from Haneda.
We made our arrangements knowing full well that Google Maps does not work in South Korea. Yes, I know, people traveled forever without smart phones and location apps. But when you rely on them day in and day out, it can be challenging to revert to more primitive tools. The girls downloaded a Korean map app that was challenging to understand and operate. But they figured it out well enough to get us from point A to point B all weekend long.
Anyway, the more pressing issue we faced upon our arrival was purchasing a metro card to facilitate our travels around Seoul throughout the weekend. Let's just say the self-serve kiosks were hard to decipher. And ATMs were not very accepting of credit and debit cards from the U.S. After we landed, the four of us spent two full hours in the airport trying to figure out how to get cash and buy transit cards.
During this time, I witnessed an airport courtesy car operating nearby carrying passengers to their respective gates. Back home, these vehicles beep obnoxiously to clear a path and alert people they are behind them. In Korea, they don't beep. Instead, they play Beethoven's "Fur Elise." Go figure. Needless to say, our weekend adventure was off to a strange start.
When we finally withdrew some cash and purchased our cards, we hopped on the subway and headed for our hotel. It wasn't entirely clear to us when and where to exit, but we somehow managed to find our way. By this point, it was well after lunchtime and we were starving, so we made a b-line for a nearby Korean barbeque restaurant. It was delish - beef and pork, complete with cold noodles (on ice - it was good but weird), assorted garnishes, kimchee, etc.
After that, we headed to the Korean War Memorial for a history lesson about how things went down in the last century. The impressive complex is quite large, with many exhibits throughout. You could easily spend a half day there, but we arrived an hour before it closed, so we took in what we could in the short time we had. It gave me a real appreciation for what the South Koreans endured, and what the U.S. and other nations did to protect and preserve their democracy.
Next, after enjoying a cocktail at a rooftop bar in a downtown hotel, we strolled through a popular street market in Insadong, where we sampled all sorts of street food delicacies - fried baby crabs, Korean egg bread (YUM), mung bean pancakes, etc.
The next day was reserved for the palaces in Seoul - there are four of them, and our plan was to visit just two. But first - breakfast. I'll be honest, as people go, Koreans definitely don't get the prize for the nicest or friendliest folks in this part of the world. For example, we went to a local coffee shop and ordered food and drink to go (unbeknownst to us). When we sat down to eat, they quite curtly told us we had to leave because we ordered take out. Mind you, there were only four other people in the place. Needless to say, this experience left a bad impression - and a lasting one.
As for the two palaces we visited, to be honest, the buildings we toured looked pretty much the same in terms of their design and ornamentation. So if you only see one palace in Seoul, you've pretty much seen them all. However, we were able witness the changing of the guard at one palace which was entertaining and worth the price of entry...
Our next stop was Bukchon Hanok Village, a really neat area featuring authentic Korean homes in a quaint, very hilly neighborhood where tourists rent "Honbok" (traditional Korean clothing) to take selfies and other photos. While we were there, we ate lunch at a small local place that sat us on floor mats at low tables. There we feasted on Bulgogi - a beef dish - along with kimchee and other assorted sides. It was great. We finished the day at yet another lively street market in Myeongdong, where the girls and I were all too happy to shop for the best merch Korea has to offer - beauty products! Let's hope that snail mucus is all it's cracked up to be. 🐌😂
The next morning we departed bright and early for our day-long coach tour of the DMZ. In a word, it was fascinating. We visited the demilitarized zone's most significant locations, including the Dora Observatory, Dorasan Station, Imjingak Park, and the Third Tunnel (which was quite a workout to descend into and climb back out of). We also hiked up to and across the Gamaksan Chulleong Suspension Bridge. It was a great day - and an exhausting one. To gaze out and see North Korea in the distance was just mind blowing.
That evening we went to yet another street market where we dined on Korean fried chicken and the best dumplings I think I've ever had.🥟🍗
Our last day was a short one. After failing once again to sit down and have a proper breakfast, we grabbed a quick bite at a coffee shop before the girls and I headed to a spa for facials. Let's just say they know what they're doing when it comes to skin in Korea. After being pampered, we were joined by Paul and took the tram up to Seoul Tower where we were able to see just how expansive the city is. Before this trip, I thought New York was huge. Now I have a completely different perspective. Some of the places I've seen over here simply dwarf the Big Apple - and Seoul is one of them.
Our last stop included lunch at McDonald's (a foreign country requirement for the girls) and a stroll through Itaewon - a hip and trendy part of of the city with lots of shops and bars. We then returned to our hotel, grabbed our luggage and headed back to the airport. I'm grateful we were able to work in one more trip to another country and experience it with our daughters. It was quite a whirlwind, but soooo worth it.
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